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  • What Kind of Enclosure Do My Discoids Need?
    Setting up your roach ranch? Don’t worry, it’s easier than you think! Start with a bin A basic plastic tote from Walmart, Target, or even one you’ve got lying around will do the trick. Discoids can’t climb smooth surfaces or glass, and they don’t fly so no fancy terrarium needed. Add some egg crates They love to hide and climb, so stack a few egg flats vertically to give them plenty of cozy crevices. 👉 Here’s where we get ours Give them something to dig into Discoids are burrowers by nature, so we recommend lining the bottom with compressed coconut fiber (like Bed-A-Beast or Eco Earth). It helps with humidity and gives them a comfy place to molt. 👉 Here’s our go-to substrate Need a bin recommendation? 👉 These are the ones we use That’s it! Simple, affordable, and roach-approved. Got questions about setup? We’re always here to help your colony thrive.
  • What Do I Feed My Discoids?
    Think of your roaches as tiny nutrition-packed delivery trucks. What you feed them goes straight into your reptiles. So let’s make it count!  Fresh is best Offer produce like Collards, leafy greens, squash, and other root veggies. These give your roaches a balanced diet and in turn, boost the nutrition your reptiles get when feeding time rolls around. Depending on what animal you're feeding your Roaches to, you can adjust the diet with Fruits as well. Feed what they’ll eat in 24 hours Only give them what they can finish in a day. Any leftovers? Scoop them out to prevent mold. (Seriously, mold is the silent colony killer. Don’t let it sneak in.) Clean bin = happy bugs Keep things tidy and dry to avoid contamination and keep your colony thriving. Remember: healthy roaches = healthy reptiles. Feed them well, and your scaly sidekicks will thank you.
  • Do I Really Need to Wash My Roaches’ Food?
    YES. PLEEEEEASE wash those fruits, greens, and veggies before feeding them to your roaches! Here’s why: Most produce is sprayed with pesticides to keep pests away, and guess what? Roaches are pests in the eyes of farmers. So while your larger animals might tolerate trace amounts, for insects, it’s basically a slow, silent death sentence. 😬 Let’s keep your colony thriving with this simple wash routine: 🫧 The Soak Method Fill your sink with water Add about ½ cup of white vinegar (or use a 1:4 vinegar-to-water ratio for smaller batches) Let your produce soak for a few minutes Rinse thoroughly 🧴 The Spray Method (for small batches) Mix the same vinegar-water ratio in a spray bottle Spray your produce, let it sit for a few minutes Rinse well before serving Your roaches will thank you with healthy molts, strong appetites, and top-tier nutrition for your reptiles. Clean food = clean colony = happy herps.
  • Don't my Roaches need to drink?
    They sure do, but not in the way you might think! Our roaches get most of their hydration from the fresh, rinsed greens we feed them. We wash their veggies thoroughly and leave them a little damp, no towel-drying here! That moisture goes a long way. We also give our colonies a light mist 2–3 times a week to keep humidity levels just right. Want to go the extra mile? You can add a shallow dish of water crystals to their bin for extra hydration. Just skip the open water dish roaches aren’t great swimmers, and we don’t want any accidental drownings.
  • What temperature do Discoid Roaches thrive in?
    Discoids like it hot. For optimal breeding, we keep our bins at a toasty 85–92°F, and the results speak for themselves: happy, active, baby-making bugs. Want to learn how to keep your roaches cozy too? 👉 Check out our heating tips and equipment guide here Keeping your temps dialed in = thriving colony = more feeders for your scaly crew.
  • How about Humidity?
    If you’re in Florida like us, congrats, you’re basically living in a roach spa ;) But just in case you’re somewhere drier (or running the A/C like it’s your job), here’s the sweet spot: Discoids thrive at 45–50% humidity. That’s their happy place. Moist enough to support healthy molts, but not so damp that you’re inviting mold to the party. If your space runs dry, a light misting a few times a week or a damp corner of substrate can help keep things balanced. Happy humidity = happy molts = happy colony.
  • How Fast Do Discoids Mature?
    Discoids take their sweet time growing up, but once they do, it’s go time. They typically reach sexual maturity and sprout their wings around 4 to 5 months of age. That’s when the real colony magic begins. 💕🪳 So if you’re raising up a future breeder crew, give them time, keep them warm, and before you know it, you’ll have a bin full of winged "lovebugs" ready to do their thing.
  • How many Babies can Discoids have in a month?
    When conditions are just right, a single female Discoid can pop out around 35 babies every 30 to 45 days. Yep! Tiny roach bundles of joy! But here’s the catch: that number isn’t guaranteed. It all comes down to your husbandry, things like temperature, humidity, nutrition, and stress levels all play a role in how productive your colony will be. Treat your roaches right, and they’ll return the favor with a booming bug nursery.
  • Do Discoids lay eggs or give live birth?
    Discoids are live-bearers! That’s right, no egg-laying here. When it’s go-time, mama roach gives birth to fully formed, wiggly little nymphs ready to burrow and grow. It’s one of the coolest (and weirdly adorable) things to witness in the bug world. 🎥 Curious what it looks like? You can watch a live birth right here below! Bug birth: it’s wild, it’s real, and it’s part of the magic of colony life.
  • How can I tell male and female Discoid roaches apart?
    Ah, the age-old roach riddle: who’s who in the bin? Here’s how to spot the difference: 🪳 Males Usually smaller and slimmer Wings extend past the tip of the abdomen Often more skittish and speedy On their underside, you’ll notice a narrower body shape 🪳 Females Wider, thicker, and built like a tank Wings are shorter than the abdomen Tend to be a bit more chill Their underside is broader and rounder 🔍 Pro tip: The most reliable way to sex them is by checking their underside. We’ve included a side-by-side visual to help you out: Once you get the hang of it, you’ll be a roach sexing pro in no time.
  • Can Discoids fly?
    Nope! Discoids can’t fly so no surprise takeoffs in your living room. They might give a little flutter boost when they jump, but that’s about it. And bonus: they also can’t climb smooth surfaces like glass or plastic, which makes them super easy to contain. Grounded, chill, and easy to manage, just the way we like our bugs.
  • What’s That Thing Hanging Out of My Roach’s Butt?
    Don’t panic, it’s not as weird as it looks! Sometimes, a pregnant female Discoid will partially push out her ootheca (that’s the fancy word for egg sack) to help it harden. If everything’s going smoothly, she’ll pull it back in when she’s ready to either breed again or give birth. 🛑 Important: Please don’t try to remove it or help, interfering can seriously injure her! If you notice a dropped or dried-out egg sack, it could be a sign of stress. In that case, check your setup: Are your temps in the sweet spot (88–92°F)? Is the bin overcrowded? Are they getting enough fresh food and hydration? A little husbandry check can go a long way in keeping your colony calm, comfy, and baby-ready.
  • Is a Brown Egg Sack a Bad Sign?
    Not at all! If you spot something that looks like a brown egg sack hanging out of your roach, don’t worry, it’s actually a good sign. Sometimes, a female will “vent” her ootheca (egg sack) by pushing it out slightly to cool it off or dry it out. As the babies inside develop, the ootheca naturally darkens to a brown color. A brown egg sack usually means one thing: Babies are on the way! So no need to panic, just give her space, keep conditions stable, and get ready for some tiny new additions to your colony.
  • Do Roach Babies hatch?
    Yes, but not in the way you might expect! Discoid roaches give live birth, usually about once a month (depending on your husbandry game). Here’s how it works: The female carries an ootheca (egg sack) internally When it’s ready, the sack becomes brittle, and the babies hatch inside her Then: Ta-da! She gives birth to a bunch of tiny white nymphs Within a few hours, they darken into the classic baby roach brown The empty egg case is then expelled It’s wild, it’s weird, and it’s one of the coolest parts of keeping a colony!
  • How often do you change the bedding?
    Surprise answer: We don’t! And here’s why! Baby roaches actually thrive in “frass” (yep, that’s roach poop). It’s packed with nutrients that help them grow strong, healthy, and resilient in their early days. Think of it as their first superfood smoothie, gross, but effective. 💩✨ Unless you’re dealing with: Mold (usually from leftover food) Mite infestations …there’s really no need to change the bedding. In fact, keeping that frass around gives your colony a major head start. So skip the deep clean and let nature do its thing.
  • The Full Setup! (A Peek Inside Our Roach Room)
    We get a ton of questions after folks receive their roaches, mostly about how to set up bins and how to get those babies breeding. So here’s a behind-the-scenes look at how we currently run our setup. Just a heads-up: we’re always tweaking things based on how our colony behaves. Observation is key! But right now, this setup is giving us top-tier breeding results: 1️⃣ The Bins We use 56 qt clear bins from Walmart... about $8 each. No lids (Discoids can’t climb smooth plastic) Clear sides help us monitor activity without spooking them Bonus: they’re so used to us, they don’t even scatter when Chris pops in to say hi 🥰 2️⃣ The Substrate We lay down about 1 inch of any one of these: Exo Terra Eco Earth Plantation Soil Coconut Fiber Husk Frass All four work great, pick what’s available to you! 3️⃣ The Egg Crates We stack egg crates vertically for hiding and climbing. Bulk orders: Zellwin Egg Flats (fast shipping, great quality) Smaller quantities: Amazon Option 4️⃣ The Food We feed a mix of: Our own dry blend Organic greens, fruits, and veggies every other day. We grow most of our own Organic food on our homestead and freeze dry as we go through the seasons for when we can not feed fresh. We place food on top of the egg crates—and trust us, with the number of roaches we have, it’s gone in 30 minutes flat. Make sure some scraps reach the substrate for the babies! 5️⃣ The Water Hydration is key! Here’s how we do it: We wash all produce thoroughly and don’t dry it, the moisture helps We use a 3-gallon sprayer to mist the bins. Roaches drink the droplets right off the walls 6️⃣ The Climate Our roaches live in their own dedicated barns, so here’s how we manage temps: No heat source needed most of the year (Florida perks!) In winter: Out Climate Control System temps above 80°F In summer: an AC unit keeps it under 100°F We monitor everything remotely with a smart sensor + router The AC is hooked up to Alexa, so we can cool things down even when we’re away That’s our current setup and it’s working beautifully. Remember, every colony is a little different, so don’t be afraid to adjust based on what your roaches are telling you. Happy breeding!
  • How do you deal with Bugs invading your bins?
    Honestly? We don’t run into this much. Our roach barn is locked down tight with screened vents and sealed entry points to keep unwanted guests out. But hey, nature finds a way, and sometimes a critter sneaks in (we're actually in the middle of buying air curtains because good lord Gnats are annoying!) . Here’s how we handle it: Anoles If one of these little lizard ninjas gets in, we gently chase or catch and relocate them outside. No harm, no foul. Huntsman Spiders We’re not in the business of squashing helpful hunters. We catch and release them outside the barn, preferably far enough away that they don’t RSVP again. Ants We had a brief ant invasion after a particularly juicy banana feast. Our fix? We greased the legs of our plastic shelving, and boom, no more ant access. They gave up and moved on within days. Fruit Flies These guys are a common complaint. Here’s our go-to trap: Fill a jar with apple cider vinegar or fruit juice Cover the top with plastic wrap and secure it with a rubber band Poke a few small holes with a toothpick or skewer They’ll fly in, but they won’t fly out. Problem solved. Mites We’ve been lucky, no mite infestations here. But if you’re dealing with them, here’s your action plan: Clear out and deep-clean the bin Gently shake and wipe down your roaches Lower humidity: Mites hate dry conditions Clean all surfaces, vacuum, and wash everything Avoid re-contamination by keeping things tidy Bonus tip: Add ladybugs to your bin they’ll snack on grain mites like it’s a buffet We also wrote a whole blog post on dealing with gnats! 👉 Check it out here Keeping your colony clean and critter-free is all about prevention, observation, and a little DIY magic.
  • My Roach Lost an Antenna. Will It Be Okay?
    Totally! Roaches are tough little survivors, and losing part (or even all) of an antenna isn’t the end of the world. In fact, fun bug fact: Discoids can regenerate limbs over time, especially during molts. So if your roach is otherwise healthy, it’ll keep on living its best bug life. Want to nerd out a bit? There’s a fascinating scientific read on roach regeneration right here: 👉 Check it out Bug resilience is real, and your little antenna-challenged friend is gonna be just fine.
  • How Do You Keep Egg Crates Dry with Eco Earth or Coconut Fiber?
    Great question and one we get a lot! Most Eco Earth or coconut fiber comes in a compressed brick that needs water to expand. But here’s the trick to keeping your egg crates dry and your bin balanced: Start small: Instead of dumping in a full gallon of water, begin with about 2 cups. Break the brick apart with your hands as it soaks, and add water gradually until you hit that perfect texture. Too wet? No problem: If you go overboard, just mix the substrate around in the bin for a few days. It’ll dry out naturally. What we aim for: A slightly damp substrate that eventually dries out to bone dry, especially in Florida’s humidity, where extra moisture isn’t needed. Dry crates = happy roaches = no moldy mess.
  • Is a Bioactive Setup Good for Roaches?
    Short answer: it can be! But it really depends on your goals. Since we breed roaches for sale, a bioactive setup doesn’t make much sense for us. We’d have to dig through the whole thing to collect roaches, which kind of defeats the purpose. So we stick to simple, efficient setups that keep our colonies thriving and easy to manage. That said, plenty of hobbyists have had success with bioactive enclosures! They can create a more natural, enriching environment for your roaches, especially if you’re keeping them more as part of a display or ecosystem. If you go this route: Add a cleanup crew (springtails, isopods) to manage waste Keep a close eye on humidity and temperature to match their natural habitat Be ready for a little more maintenance and observation It’s a cool option if you’re into the bioactive lifestyle, just not the best fit for high-volume breeding.
  • Can I leave the Dry Food in their bin?
    Yep, you sure can! We leave dry food in our bins all the time with zero issues, but keep in mind, we’ve got a LOT of roaches, so nothing sits around for long. If you’re working with a smaller colony, just be mindful not to overfeed. A little goes a long way, and as long as the food’s getting eaten and not sitting damp, you shouldn’t run into any mold problems. Dry food = low maintenance = happy bugs.
  • Should I separate my roaches by size?
    You can, but we don’t. All of our roaches, from tiny nymphs to full-grown adults, live together in the same bins. It keeps things simple and natural. The only time we separate them is when: We’re fulfilling an order A bin gets too crowded and it’s time to start a new one Roaches are pretty chill roommates, and as long as your husbandry is solid, they’ll thrive together just fine.
  • Do I need a Cleaner Beetle colony?
    Our answer? A big ol’ NOPE. Cleaner beetles are often used to eat leftover food, frass (roach poop), and decaying matter... but here’s the thing: We’ve already explained why frass is gold for baby roaches and shouldn’t be removed Leftover food? Just remove it within 12–24 hours and you’re good As for sheds or the occasional dead roach, we hand-pick those out during regular maintenance So unless you’re running a massive operation and need help with cleanup, we don’t see the need. For Discoids, cleaner beetles just aren’t essential. That said, it’s totally your call. If you’re curious or want to experiment, go for it! But for us, we keep it simple and it works beautifully. We also wrote a deep-dive article on this topic if you want to nerd out a little more: 👉 Read it here
  • Does Bin Size Matter? Will They Breed Less in a Bigger Bin?
    Short answer: Nope! The real real estate isn’t the bin, it’s the egg crates. That’s where your roaches live, hide, breed, and do their thing. As long as your colony has: Enough egg crate space to spread out Room to grow gradually …you’re in great shape. Can’t upgrade to a bigger bin just yet? No problem, just stack in more egg crates to give them extra living space without needing a full move. More crates = more comfort = more babies.
  • How Can I Tell if a Female Is Pregnant?
    Oh, you’ll know: She turns into a big, fat, roachy pillow. 😂 Pregnant females get noticeably rounder, heavier, and thicker through the middle. They’ve got that “I’m carrying 30+ babies” kind of glow (okay, maybe not glow... but definitely girth). If she’s looking extra plump and moving a little slower, chances are she’s cooking up a fresh batch of nymphs.
  • Do the Babies Burrow or Hide?
    Oh, they burrow... big time. As we’ve mentioned before, Discoids are natural burrowers, and their babies are no exception. If you ever get the urge to scoop up a handful of substrate or frass, don’t be surprised if you uncover a tiny roach daycare underneath. They love to tuck themselves away in the cozy, nutrient-rich layers where it’s safe, warm, and snackable. So if you don’t see them right away, trust us, they’re in there!
  • Do I Have to Change the Egg Crates?
    Not often but yes, eventually. We swap ours out when they start looking chewed up, soggy, or just plain icky. If they’re holding up and not growing anything funky, there’s no rush. Roaches aren’t picky but we are when it comes to keeping things clean and comfy. Think of it like changing the sheets: Do it when it feels right (or starts to smell wrong).
  • I Heard Oranges Make Roaches Breed Better. Is That True?
    Kind of! Oranges are like a little aphrodisiac for roaches and they get the colony buzzing (literally). But there are a few things to keep in mind if you’re going to treat your bugs to citrus: Stick to Navel oranges: They have the lowest citric acid, which is gentler on your roaches’ systems. Limit it to once a week: A little goes a long way. Overdoing it can throw off their gut balance. Wait 3 - 4 days before feeding those roaches to your reptiles: This gives them time to fully digest the citrus. SCRUB those oranges like your colony depends on it: Because it does. Orange peels are often coated in pesticides that won’t hurt us, but can be lethal to your roaches. And honestly, that goes for any fresh produce, always wash thoroughly. We’ve heard heartbreaking stories of entire colonies wiped out just because someone skipped the rinse. So yes, oranges can spice things up, but only if you serve them smart!
  • How Do I Hold My Roach with Tongs?
    If you’re using tongs, the best spot to grip is just behind the head, where the exoskeleton slightly protrudes. It’s the most secure and comfortable place for the roach and it helps you avoid accidentally squeezing too hard on softer parts of the body. Think of it like a gentle pinch on the shoulders... not too tight, just enough to keep them steady. Always use soft-tipped or rubber-coated tongs if you can, and go slow. A calm roach is a happy roach.
  • How to Split a Roach Colony (Without the Stress)
    So your bin is booming! Congrats! That means your roaches are happy, healthy, and doing what they do best. But when things start getting a little too cozy, it’s time to split the colony to keep everyone thriving. Here’s how we do it at Luna Roaches: When to Split a Colony Look for these signs: The bin is visibly overcrowded (roaches are stacked on top of each other constantly) You’re seeing slower growth or fewer babies There’s increased waste buildup or humidity issues You’re having trouble finding food that lasts more than 10 minutes If your bin feels like a roach rave, it’s time to give them some breathing room. What You’ll Need A clean, dry bin (we use 56 qt clear totes from Walmart. No lid needed) Fresh substrate (Eco Earth, coconut fiber, or plantation soil, about 1 inch) A few egg crates for hiding and climbing Optional: a spray bottle for misting and a thermometer/hygrometer to monitor conditions How to Split the Colony 1. Pick your moment - Choose a calm time, ideally when you’re already doing maintenance or feeding. We're big on producing calm, healthy animals and we believe in keeping it as stress free as possible, even for Bugs! 2. Scoop and sort - Gently scoop out a mix of: Adults (both males and females) Juveniles A handful of nymphs. This gives your new bin a balanced population that can grow and breed naturally. 3. Transfer egg crates - Move a few egg crates over from the original bin. This brings familiar scent and structure, which helps reduce stress. 4. Add fresh food and mist - Give them a light mist and a small serving of fresh produce to help them settle in. 5. Monitor both bins - Keep an eye on humidity, temperature, and behavior over the next few days. If everyone’s eating, burrowing, and chilling, you’re golden. Pro Tip: Clean as You Go Use this opportunity to do a light clean of the original bin: Remove any moldy food, stir the substrate, and check for pests. Splitting colonies isn’t just about space. It’s about keeping your roaches healthy, productive, and stress-free. Plus, it gives you a backup colony in case anything ever goes sideways.
  • Our Shipping Schedule (a.k.a. How Your Roaches Hit the Road)
    We ship orders Monday through Thursday to make sure your roaches don’t get stuck in weekend postal limbo—because no one wants their bugs chilling in a warehouse all Sunday. Here’s how it breaks down: Order on Monday → Ships Tuesday Order on Tuesday → Ships Wednesday Order on Wednesday → Ships Thursday Order on Thursday, Friday, or Saturday → Ships Monday Order on Sunday → Ships Tuesday We do it this way to keep your roaches safe, speedy, and stress-free. Because happy bugs = happy reptiles.
  • Do you ship oversees?
    No, unfortunately we do not.
  • Seasonal Shipping Policy: Keeping Your Roaches Safe Year-Round
    We’re all about delivering happy, healthy bugs—but extreme weather can make that tricky. Here’s how we handle shipping during the wild swings of Florida winters and U.S. summers: ❄️ WINTER SHIPPING If temps drop below 40°F, we hit pause on shipping. Roaches don’t do well in the cold, and we won’t risk sending them out to freeze. If we do ship during chilly weather, please make sure someone is available to grab the package as soon as it arrives, or better yet, choose Hold for Pickup at checkout so your bugs stay cozy at the Post Office until you can scoop them up. ☀️ SUMMER SHIPPING When it’s blazing hot (we’re talking above 94°F), we strongly recommend selecting Hold for Pickup at checkout. It’s the best way to protect your roaches from overheating in a hot mailbox or delivery truck. If you choose “No” to Hold for Pickup, you’re accepting full responsibility for the condition of your order upon arrival. Luna Roaches won’t be held liable for heat-related losses in that case. We also ask that you: Check your local forecast before ordering Avoid ordering if temps will be above 94°F for three consecutive days after your ship date Understand that we may delay shipping or offer a refund if conditions are too risky 🚨 If Something Goes Wrong If your order runs into trouble between us dropping it off and you picking it up, let us know right away. We truly appreciate your understanding. Weather is out of our control, but we’ll always do everything we can to get your bugs to you safely. While we can’t guarantee live arrival during extreme temps, we’re happy to work with you on a case-by-case basis especially if you selected Hold for Pickup.
  • Issues in Transit? We’ve Got Your Back (and your Bugs)
    Your happiness, and your reptile’s, is our top priority. We’re always here to help if something goes sideways with your order. That said, we do have a few important guidelines to make sure we can step in and make things right: 🕐 Let Us Know ASAP If your order arrives with any issues (like DOAs or delivery problems), please contact us within 1 hour of the package being marked as delivered. We go by the timestamp provided by the carrier, so be sure to check your tracking info and act quickly. After that window, our live arrival guarantee is void. 📦 If Your Package Was Mistreated in Transit Sometimes the postal system gets a little… chaotic. If your shipment was clearly mishandled or delayed and it arrived in rough shape, here’s what to do: All Priority Mail packages include $50 of insurance. If your order qualifies, you’ll need to file a claim directly with USPS at usps.com/help/claims.htm. The post office will usually issue a check to you once your claim is processed. We’ll always do our best to support you through the process, but USPS requires the claim to come from the recipient. We’re bug people, but we’re also people-people and we truly want you (and your scaly sidekicks) to be happy. If you ever have questions or need help, don’t hesitate to reach out via email.
  • How to Help Your Roaches Arrive Alive & Thriving
    We do everything we can on our end to send your bugs off safe, sound, and ready to crawl, but there are a few things you can do to make sure they arrive happy and healthy: Track your package Keep an eye on your tracking info so you’re ready to grab your shipment the moment it lands. Timing is everything when it comes to live insects! Be there to receive it Roaches don’t love sitting in a hot mailbox or freezing warehouse. Please make sure someone is available to open the box right away when it arrives. Mind the weather If temps are above 85°F or below 50°F, we strongly recommend: ✅ Choosing “Hold for Pickup” at checkout so your bugs stay safe at the Post Office 🧑‍🤝‍🧑 Asking a neighbor to grab the box if you can’t be home Unattended packages + extreme temps = sad roaches. Let’s avoid that.
  • I'm local, can I pick my Roaches up?"
    We wish we could still offer local pickup (we love meeting our bug-loving neighbors!), but unfortunately, our homeowners insurance had other ideas. They made it clear that having customers on-site could put our coverage at risk and with the Florida insurance market being what it is… yeah, we can’t afford to play chicken with it. We hope you understand, and we truly appreciate your support from wherever you’re crawling in from. We’re still shipping all across the Sunshine State with love (and lots of roaches).
  • When Should You Add a Heat Pack?
    If it’s below 50°F where you are, you’ll definitely want to toss a heat pack into your cart. You’ll find it right alongside our roaches in the shop, easy peasy. We can’t guarantee live arrival in cold temps without one, and we’d hate for your bugs to freeze their antennae off in transit. We put a lot of love into raising these roaches, and we want them to arrive safe, sound, and ready to crawl. So if it’s chilly out, do your colony a favor and add that heat pack. It’s a small step that makes a big difference.
  • Where Do I Pick Up My “Hold for Pickup” Order?
    Great question! We wish we had access to more info, but we only see what you see in the tracking updates, so we can’t tell you exactly which Post Office your package will land at. But don’t worry, here are a few ways to track it down: Ask your mail carrier If you catch your delivery person, they’re usually the best source for which Post Office handles your route. Use the USPS tool Head to USPS Find Locations and select “Pickup Hold Mail” in the filter options. Google it Search “Post Office near me” and check which one is closest to your home, it’s usually the one your mail runs through. We know it’s a little old-school, but it’s worth the extra step to keep your bugs safe and out of the weather. Thanks for being awesome and helping us get your roaches to you safe and sound!
  • How to setup your Bin
  • Do they like our Dry food? Oh yes, they do!"
  • The Future Wave
  • Discoid Molting - Part 1
  • Discoid Molting - Part 2
  • Discoid Molting - Part 3
  • Discoid Molting - Part 4
  • Discoid Molting - Part 5
  • Discoid Molting - Final Video
  • Baby Surprise
  • How to make Friends with your Roaches
  • Quality Control at Luna Roaches
  • Do the Roaches like our Dry Food?
    Judge for yourself!
  • Want to Change Your Subscription?
    We totally get it... sometimes your colony’s needs change! While our current system doesn’t allow you to swap one product for another within an active subscription, here’s what you can do: Cancel your current Roach subscription Start a new one with the product that fits your needs best Easy as that! If you need a hand or just want someone to walk you through it, we’re always happy to help. Just shoot us a message at lunaroaches@gmail.com.
  • Need to Cancel Your Subscription?
    No hard feelings, we get it! If you need to cancel your subscription, here are a few easy ways to do it: Click your name at the top of the site and head to “My Subscriptions” Log into your PayPal account and cancel it under your active subscriptions Prefer the hands-off route or don't see any options to cancel? Just email us at lunaroaches@gmail.com and we’ll take care of it for you Just a heads-up: Please cancel at least 24 hours before your next billing date to avoid getting charged for the next shipment.
  • Need to Change Your Shipping Address?
    No problem! Here’s how to make sure your roaches head to the right place: Log into your account and click “Change Address” Or go to My Account > Addresses and add your updated info there 🚨 Important: If you have an active subscription, your address won’t update automatically so please make the change as soon as possible to avoid any misdirected bugs. Need help or want us to double-check it for you? Just shoot us a message at lunaroaches@gmail.com we’re happy to help keep your colony on track!
  • Need to Reach Us? We’re All Ears (and Antennae)
    Got a question, concern, or just want to talk bugs? We’d love to hear from you! Here’s how you can get in touch: Click the little chat bubble on your screen to message us directly Email us anytime at lunaroaches@gmail.com Slide into our DMs on Facebook we’re pretty active over there too! We’re real people, we love bugs, and we’re always happy to help however we can.
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